Let’s talk about raw oils.
We’re not here to be dramatic.
We’re here because we care.
As stylists, especially our in house curl specialist, our Hairlock team has seen so much damage caused by raw oils. It breaks our hearts every time someone sits in our chair, exhausted, wondering why their hair feels like it’s not “hair” anymore.
And more often than not?
They’ve been using oils… for months.
So let’s be abundantly clear:
We do not recommend raw oils for hair. Period.
That includes coconut, castor, olive, argan—even if it’s fractionated, cold-pressed, or “100% natural.”
If it’s not professionally formulated into a hair product by a company that understands hair chemistry, it’s not helping.
It’s slowly hurting.
🧪 What’s actually happening?
There’s a protective lipid layer underneath your hair’s cuticle.
It helps your hair stay flexible and strong.
And yes, water is corrosive to hair. That lipid layer matters.
But raw oils gradually break it down.
Add in chlorine, heat, brushing, or coloring—and you’ve got a recipe for disaster.
Once that lipid layer is gone, bleach or color can literally melt your hair.
We’re not being dramatic. We’ve seen it happen.
(We’ve got separate blog posts on swim care—check those out if that applies to you.)
👩🔬 But isn’t oil an ingredient in hair care?
Yes. But here’s the difference:
- Professionally formulated oils are emulsified, balanced, and designed with delivery systems and pH in mind.
- Raw oils are just… oil. No structure. No support. No balance.
You’re not a chemist. Neither are we.
But we work with products made by companies who hire them. That matters.
🍰 Think about it like cake.
Eggs alone don’t make a cake.
You can even substitute vinegar. But if you don’t get the ratios right, the whole thing flops.
Too many eggs? Dense.
Too little vinegar? Flat.
It’s not about the ingredient—it’s about the formula.
Hair care is the same.
Just because an oil can be in a good formula doesn’t mean using it raw will give you good results.
⚖️ “The dosage makes the poison.”
A little of something might help.
A lot of it—or used the wrong way—can do real harm.
Layering raw oils, thinking it’s “moisture,” leads to coated, compacted, dehydrated hair that can’t absorb anything anymore.
❌ Not all “hair brands” are equal, either.
We’re not just talking about pantry oils.
We’re talking about brands that:
- Reuse outdated formulas
- Were bought out and cheapened
- Market “curl care” without investing in curl science
Even if the label says “for curls,” it might not be chemically sound.
We’ve trained in curl education, including the tightest coils.
We’ve done the research. So you don’t have to.
✅ What should you use?
Even if you don’t use the brand we recommend, please choose:
- Products from a dedicated hair care brand
- That invests in chemistry and reformulation
- That avoids known irritants and cares about the people, not just the profit
- That understands how curl patterns behave and evolve
Your hair deserves more than kitchen remedies disguised as “natural.”
💬 If you’ve used oils before—this isn’t your fault.
You were trying to take care of your hair.
You were told oils were good.
And they can be—in the right formula, in the right dose, with the right delivery system.
But raw oils are not it.
If your hair isn’t responding anymore, it may be time to hit reset.
That might mean 3–6 months of just:
Shampoo. Conditioner. One styling product.
That’s how we rehab. That’s how we heal.
💔 And yes, the damage is real.
We’ve had clients whose hair takes months to recover from long-term oil use.
Hair that won’t respond. That breaks, mats, flakes. That can’t bounce back in one appointment—or three.
We’re tired of seeing it.
We’ve made blog posts about it.
We’re not gatekeeping, we’re just trying to stop the cycle.
🙏 If nothing else, hear this:
Even if you don’t use the brand we trust,
Please use something built by people who understand hair.
And if this stings a little? We get it.
Letting go of something you believed in is hard.
But if you’ve made it this far, maybe this message was meant for you.
Let’s stop letting bad information damage good hair.
Let’s do better—together.
We’re here if you need help.
And we’re always rooting for your curls.
