If you’ve ever heard someone say they have low porosity hair, it’s often treated like a hair type—something you’re born with that needs special treatment. But let’s set the record straight: all healthy hair is naturally low porosity.
The cuticle—the outermost layer of the hair strand—is designed to stay closed to protect the inner structure from damage. The lipid layer helps repel excess moisture, keeping hair strong and preventing unwanted swelling. Why? Because when hair becomes overly saturated with water, it weakens the bonds inside, leading to breakage.
So, what’s really happening when people talk about struggling with low porosity? Most often, it’s either:
- Product buildup that’s blocking moisture from getting in
- A misconception about how healthy hair actually behaves
Understanding what’s actually happening with your hair will help you treat it correctly, instead of chasing misleading “low porosity” routines that don’t address the root cause.
The Truth About Hair Porosity
Porosity is a measurement of how much water or product your hair can absorb, but naturally, hair is supposed to repel excess moisture—this is a sign of a healthy cuticle.
Porosity Changes Regularly—And Can’t Be Tested with a Glass of Water
A common myth is that you can test your porosity by dropping a hair strand into a glass of water and seeing if it floats or sinks. This test is not accurate. Here’s why:
- Porosity is not a fixed trait—it changes based on product use, chemical services, and how well (or poorly) the hair has been cleansed.
- What’s on the hair affects the test. If you’ve used heavy conditioners, oils, or leave-ins, they may prevent water from penetrating, making the hair appear low porosity when it’s just coated.
- Hard water skews results. Many areas—especially in New Orleans—have severe hard water, which can weigh hair down and alter how it behaves in water. Learn more about the effects of hard water on hair and how to protect your locks.
- Glassware residue interferes. Whatever was in the glass before, whether soap residue, minerals, or oils, can also affect the result.
Instead of relying on the glass of water test, assess your hair based on how it responds to water and product in real time.
When Hair Gains Porosity, It’s Damaged
If your hair has changed from naturally low porosity to more porous, it’s because something caused damage to the cuticle. This could be from:
- Harsh Products or Unbalanced pH Levels – Products that are too alkaline (like baking soda) can force the cuticle open, while overly acidic treatments (like apple cider vinegar) can strip and weaken the hair.
- Heat Damage – High heat opens the cuticle and can break internal bonds, permanently altering how hair reacts to moisture. Discover how to avoid heat damage and protect your hair.
- Overlapping Color Treatments – Lighteners and permanent dyes chemically break down the hair structure, making it more porous over time.
- Chlorine and Hard Water – Chlorine eats through the lipid layer, stripping away the hair’s natural moisture barrier, while mineral buildup from hard water can create stiffness and prevent products from absorbing properly.
Important: Damage does not cause “low porosity.” It increases porosity. Damaged hair is a different problem altogether, requiring specific treatments based on the type of damage rather than a generic “low porosity routine.”
Can Product Build-Up Cause “Low Porosity” Hair?
Absolutely.
Many styling products contain anti-humectants, which intentionally seal out moisture to prevent frizz or extend style longevity. While this is great for styling, over time it can create buildup that makes hair feel resistant to moisture—not because it’s naturally “low porosity,” but because there’s a barrier of product preventing water from getting in.
The solution? A proper cleanse. If product buildup is your issue, a clarifying shampoo will remove the residues blocking moisture from your hair. Learn about the power of clarifying treatments and why your hair deserves a fresh start.
The Most Common Issue: Product + Sebum Build-Up
Another form of buildup comes from an ineffective wash routine, which leads to:
- Sebum (natural scalp oils) not being properly cleansed from the hair
- Product buildup layering on top of that oil
This often happens due to:
- Shampoos that prioritize “sulfate-free” over effective cleansing (Many so-called gentle shampoos don’t actually cleanse well.)
- The No-Poo or Co-Wash Method, which skips shampoo altogether, leading to compacted buildup over time.
Solution: Proper washing techniques and water-soluble hair products will keep hair clean while allowing moisture to penetrate when needed. Explore the simple science of hair care and get back to basics.
How to Address Low Porosity & Build-Up Issues
- If the issue is product buildup → Use a clarifying or chelating shampoo to remove residue and restore hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Our customized clarifying treatments can help remove hard water minerals, heavy metals, and product buildup.
- If the issue is naturally low porosity hair → Let water actually soak in before applying products. Take your time in the shower instead of rushing.
- If the issue is product + sebum buildup → Use a well-formulated cleanser and wash your hair thoroughly with proper technique. Discover professional answers to the oily hair struggle and learn how to wash effectively.
- If you’ve been using raw oils (like coconut oil or castor oil from the kitchen) → Your hair may have absorbed oils in place of its lipid layer. It can take months of proper washing and re-conditioning with the right products to restore healthy function. Debunk hair care myths and understand why coconut oil isn’t the magic solution.
Understanding Your Hair’s Needs
Instead of thinking of low porosity as an unchangeable trait, recognize that hair is designed to have a protective cuticle that resists too much moisture. If you’re struggling with moisture absorption, the real question is: What’s preventing your hair from behaving as it should?
By addressing the root cause—whether it’s buildup, damage, or ineffective cleansing—you’ll have a much better chance of restoring your hair’s natural function rather than fighting against it. Instead of blindly following “low porosity” routines that may not apply to your situation, take a step back and assess:
- Is there buildup blocking moisture from getting in? → Use a clarifying shampoo.
- Is the cuticle damaged and too open? → Repair the damage based on its cause.
- Are you using ineffective cleansers? → Learn how to wash properly with the right products.
Your hair doesn’t need to be “fixed” by trendy porosity hacks—it needs thoughtful care that respects how it naturally functions.
If you’re ready to take control of your curl care with expert-backed knowledge, check out more of our deep-dive posts at WickedHues.com/blog, or book your first appointment with one of our hairlocks! Your curls deserve the best, and that starts with understanding, not misinformation.
